QUESTION: I understand that you are marketing a luxury process and that
recycled anything might not be part of the message the way ethical is,
but have you considered adding information on the recylced metals you
use to the ethical standards part of your website?
ANSWER: I am currently working on a completely new website and plan to expand on information about the recycling process so that end clients can understand the inner workings of "Sustainable Jewelry"
Awareness is finally getting out there, and the group Ethical Metalsmiths http://ethicalmetalsmiths.org/ is working hard to promote this. They are a terrific organization and it is all of our responsibility to make our clients aware of as much as possible on these subjects. Remember, I work with 100% recycled precious metals, therefore not contributing to new mining as seen here:
Saturday, March 5, 2011
Wednesday, March 2, 2011
sustainable/socially responsible jewelry conversation, part 3
QUESTION: Perusing your website was such a treat! I loved the mabe pearl
and ruby ring, but the ruby was labeled as Burmese
ANSWER: OK the complication is that before the embargo there was a very very common and popular trade in Rubies, and Burma/Myanmar is considered the very highest quality. THis means that MOST of the best rubies in
the world came from "Burma." The embargo started, but this did not
prevent dealers who had already purchased these fine rubies from selling what they already bought. The stock around the world of Burmese Rubies is enormous. AND STILL considered the finest.
ALSO, the mabe pearl ring http://www.alexandrahart.com/rings/ring_mabe_pearl.htm
does NOT have a Burmese Ruby on it, its a "hot pink sapphire."
Without sending you to GIA for a Gemology course, Sapphires and Rubies are the same gem: Corrundum. The difference is based in the color, so if its not red enough, its not ruby. (this can be subjective at times). The only Burmese Ruby I have on my site is here, purchesed by request by the client to be the finest available:
http://www.alexandrahart.com/customrings/1553.htm
and ruby ring, but the ruby was labeled as Burmese
ANSWER: OK the complication is that before the embargo there was a very very common and popular trade in Rubies, and Burma/Myanmar is considered the very highest quality. THis means that MOST of the best rubies in
the world came from "Burma." The embargo started, but this did not
prevent dealers who had already purchased these fine rubies from selling what they already bought. The stock around the world of Burmese Rubies is enormous. AND STILL considered the finest.
ALSO, the mabe pearl ring http://www.alexandrahart.com/rings/ring_mabe_pearl.htm
does NOT have a Burmese Ruby on it, its a "hot pink sapphire."
Without sending you to GIA for a Gemology course, Sapphires and Rubies are the same gem: Corrundum. The difference is based in the color, so if its not red enough, its not ruby. (this can be subjective at times). The only Burmese Ruby I have on my site is here, purchesed by request by the client to be the finest available:
http://www.alexandrahart.com/customrings/1553.htm
Monday, February 28, 2011
sustainable/socially responsible jewelry conversation, part 2
QUESTION: It's great that your gems are from "fair trade' and other
legitimately mined sources. Are any of your gems certified Fair Trade?
ANSWER: As of yet, as far as I know, there is no "official" Certification, only are reputable dealers who follow "Fair Trade Gem Protocols" and guarantee this on paper in their own words. Since 2005 I have been purchasing colored gems from only 2 or 3 dealers with whom I have a trustworthy relationship, and who can inform me the source and thus the trade practice of the stones from which I am purchasing. One of those dealers, my favorite, is Columbia Gem House, who is the only dealer SPECIALIZING in Fair Trade Gems- (http://www.columbiagemhouse.com/)
Before 2005 I had a larger market of work using colored gems, and
while I prioritized Ethical/highly reputable dealers, I did not research each stone as I have been doing since. Lastly, I am no longer developing new designs which include colored stones, too complicated to align with my Fair Trade Philosophy, except when dealing with Columbia Gem House. Most of the recent work which includes colored stones are working with clients stones, or clients specific request.
QUESTION: If not, what other certifications do they carry?
ANSWER: They are therefore not "Certified" per se, each case is different, and each dealers' information is tracked. Again, I am moving away from working primarily with colored stones in my own work for this reason.
QUESTION: If certifications are not the process by which gems are tracked,
(because I'm not a gemnologist/ jeweler) how do you know where your
gems come from and under what conditions they were mined?
ANSWER: I purchase from dealers who can tell me the source and practices because they are closer to the source, and have themselves long established relationships with the miners or site holders.
sustainable/socially responsible jewelry conversation, part 1
I have begun the process of joining a "green" network and the process includes discussions about what we do as a "socially responsible business" in order to be considered GREEN. This and several following posts are clipped from the conversation and help illustrate what goes on behind the scenes:
QUESTION:It's wonderful to think that some ugly gold jewelry could
become something lovley by being recycled! How does working with
recycled metals work? When you make your jewelry, do you buy bars of
gold, silver and platinum that were made from melted/ reprocessed old
jewelry?
ANSWER:I purchase all my metals from only two sources: Hoover and Strong http://www.hooverandstrong.com/category/HARMONY+Metals+and+Gems/
and my caster, Empire Jewelry Mfg. who purchases his supply from 100% recycling refiners. This way I can claim 100% recycled- guaranteed by my suppliers. (Please spend some time on Hoover's site,they just got SCS Certification!) I have ALWAYS bought from Hoover since I started in grad school, a terrific company who supplies everything I need. As for the "ugly old jewelry" being recycled, I weigh and value the gold from my clients when they want me to credit them toward a new piece, send their "old gold" to the refiner and purchase newly refined gold for the project. Because of the impurities in the already made "old gold" I cannot directly use their metals but it recycles into the system and gets refined. Tis is why Hoover does not need "new mined material" since there is billions of pounds of gold coming back to them at all times.
QUESTION:It's wonderful to think that some ugly gold jewelry could
become something lovley by being recycled! How does working with
recycled metals work? When you make your jewelry, do you buy bars of
gold, silver and platinum that were made from melted/ reprocessed old
jewelry?
ANSWER:I purchase all my metals from only two sources: Hoover and Strong http://www.hooverandstrong.com/category/HARMONY+Metals+and+Gems/
and my caster, Empire Jewelry Mfg. who purchases his supply from 100% recycling refiners. This way I can claim 100% recycled- guaranteed by my suppliers. (Please spend some time on Hoover's site,they just got SCS Certification!) I have ALWAYS bought from Hoover since I started in grad school, a terrific company who supplies everything I need. As for the "ugly old jewelry" being recycled, I weigh and value the gold from my clients when they want me to credit them toward a new piece, send their "old gold" to the refiner and purchase newly refined gold for the project. Because of the impurities in the already made "old gold" I cannot directly use their metals but it recycles into the system and gets refined. Tis is why Hoover does not need "new mined material" since there is billions of pounds of gold coming back to them at all times.
Sunday, February 20, 2011
Thursday, February 17, 2011
Sunday, February 6, 2011
Art Meets Fashion, save the date
come to the San Diego Airport on April 28 to view the runway show of the collaborative efforts of Artists, Fashion designers, textile designers, teachers and many other creative spirits!
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